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Beyond the Pyramid

“I want something pretty.”

Was she joking?

We worked for one of the biggest brands in the world. And that was the whole brief from my manager.

“Pretty.”

I didn’t know if I should laugh or cry.

I used to think the people in charge always knew what they were doing. But asking for something “pretty” is just another way of saying you have no idea what you want. And you can’t create something extraordinary from a brief that says nothing.

But to be fair, fragrance is difficult to explain.

Pretty. Fresh. Woody. Sweet. Sensual.

I use these words too. Fortunately, I’ve learned there are much better ways to describe fragrances.

But even the most detailed description can leave something important out.

Recently, I spent a lot of time studying a niche perfume I couldn’t stop smelling.

I could explain most of it.

But there was something about it I couldn't put into words.

And that's what impressed me the most.

I Know What I’m Smelling. Or Do I?

The fragrance that caught my attention is Byredo’s Future Memories.

It’s a beautifully constructed fragrance. I’d classify it as a neo-gourmand.

And this is how Byredo describes its fragrance pyramid:

Top Notes: Blackcurrant, aldehydes, galbanum.

Heart Notes: Iris butter, orange blossom, labdanum, white vanilla.

Base Notes: Musk, Madagascar vanilla, vanilla liqueur, Ambrofix.

Looking at the pyramid, I recognize much of what I’m smelling.

A list of fragrance notes gives you clues. It doesn’t tell you how the materials were combined, what stands out, or how the fragrance develops on your skin. And it can’t tell you whether you’ll love it.

But something else is going on.

And that’s where it gets interesting.

Something Is Missing

The more I smell Future Memories, the more I appreciate how well it’s designed.

I’ll admit I’m biased.

Galbanum, orris, labdanum and vanilla absolute are some of my favorite materials.

But there are mystery facets I can’t explain.

There's something deeper. Almost oud-like. And a floral presence that lifts the fragrance without making it too heavy or sticky sweet.

I'd love to know what materials are giving these effects. How they smell individually. And what they're contributing to the finished fragrance.

But I don’t.

And that doesn’t bother me.

If anything, it makes the fragrance more interesting.

Looking Beyond the Pyramid

A few years ago, I would have stopped at top, heart and base notes.

After more than three years of building my Emotional Fragrance Design framework, I’ve changed how I think about perfume. And how I smell it.

I still care about materials, accords, structure and performance. Everything I was trained to understand as a perfumer.

But today, I ask different questions.

Not just what a fragrance smells like. But what experience it creates.

And what that experience means to the person wearing it.

Here’s how I smell and think about Future Memories:

Blackcurrant + Galbanum + Aldehydes (Awakening & Curiosity): Tart berries. Crushed green leaves. A clean, bright freshness that catches your attention with something a little unfamiliar.

Iris + Orange Blossom (Elegance & Quiet Confidence): Fine face powder. Soft white flowers. Composed, approachable and assured.

Labdanum + Vanilla + Musk (Comfort & Anticipation): Warm resin. Balsamic depth. Rich vanilla, softened by musk. Close, intimate and a little sensual.

What I love is how these accords work together.

The green notes give the powdery flowers definition. The flowers connect that freshness to the vanilla. And the resinous, musky warmth gives the whole fragrance substance.

I picture someone who enjoys this mix of curiosity, quiet confidence and comfort. Someone who wants to feel a little different without standing out.

But another person might love the same fragrance for a completely different reason.

Think about the vanilla. One person wears it because it comforts them. Another because it feels seductive. Someone else because it smells like baking with their grandmother. One material. Three different reasons. We think we’re describing smells. Often, we’re describing needs.

That’s what looking beyond the pyramid shows me.

The notes tell me about the fragrance.

But they don’t tell me everything about the person who wears it.

So next time you try a fragrance, ask yourself three questions:

1. What do I smell?
2. How does it make me feel?
3. When would I want to wear it?

Don’t worry about finding the right words. Sometimes words like “pretty” are OK.

Future Memories?

There’s one more thing I love about this fragrance.

Its name.

Future Memories.

It makes me wonder about the people who wear it.

Are they creating memories for themselves? Moments they’ll want to look back on?

Or are they hoping to make an impression? To become someone other people remember?

Maybe a little of both.

Fragrances this well made don’t come along often. I’m a little jealous I didn’t make it myself.

Thousands of new fragrances are launched every year. Many will eventually be forgotten. But I hope Future Memories won't be one of them.

Here’s something I didn’t expect to say.

I love it more than I like it.

I mean that as a perfumer. I admire it as a creation, even the parts I don’t fully understand.

Which brings me back to where we started.

Pretty.

I still think it’s a terrible fragrance brief.

But when I try to explain why I respect Future Memories, I struggle to find the right words too.